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Why are Li Xian and Wang Yibo wearing women’s clothes? Male Chinese celebrities are leading a gender-neutral fashion trend at odds with the country’s anti-K-pop traditional values

Chinese stars like Li Xian, Wang Yibo, Cai Xukun and Jackson Yee are challenging gender and fashion boundaries by wearing womenswear, but can China’s newest fashion trend take hold amid pervading cultural norms? Photo:@橘子娱乐, @这就是街舞, @PRADA普拉达, @TFBOYS-易烊千玺/Weibo

In the realm of gender-fluid fashion, women wearing men’s clothes have always been more dominant than the opposite. Drawn to their oversized fits, women have long been rocking “boyfriend” jeans and shirts to add chic to their wardrobe.

But today, the growing number of Chinese male fashionistas wearing women’s clothes is reversing the narrative. From celebrities to influencers, Chinese men are increasingly shopping for womenswear.

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It is much easier to find well-designed and interesting pieces in womenswear than menswear … The cut is better, details are more well-thought-out, and there are just more choices overall
Jeremy Yang, fashion blogger
Wang Yibo wore a pink jacket from Chanel’s pre-autumn 2020 womenswear collection on the TV show Street Dance of China. Photo: @这就是街舞/Weibo
Actor Wang Yibo, who was announced as Chanel’s brand ambassador this June, epitomises the genderless chic becoming popular in China’s fashion community. Referred to as a man that “incarnated Chanel”, Wang has worn the brand’s iconic womenswear in TV shows and on magazine covers for a fashion-forward look that defies gendered expectations.

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For example, he famously paired a pink Chanel jacket with a mini purse in the show Street Dance of China and wore a tweed jacket to a red carpet event held by Tencent. Not only did Wang’s outfits normalise womenswear for men, but they have also inspired women, who find his looks surprisingly cool for a classical brand like Chanel.

Li Xian donned a coat from Chanel’s women’s collection at a Vogue party. Photo: @橘子娱乐/Weibo

Wang is just one of the many male Chinese idols setting a new normal for men’s fashion. Tiffany & Co. and Armani Beauty’s spokesperson Jackson Yee wore a Chanel women’s tweed overall to the Grammy’s in 2018. Then, actor Li Xian, the spokesperson of Ermenegildo Zegna, attended a 2019 Vogue party in a Chanel coat from its 2018 womenswear collection.

Cai Xukun, Prada’s muse and ambassador since 2019, frequently wears the brand’s women’s suits to red carpet events. And on Weibo, the hashtag #MaleCelebrityInWomenwear is an active thread, with over 150 million views and 320 thousand posts.
Since 2019, Cai Xukun has been Prada’s muse and has been frequently spotted wearing their products on the red carpet. Photo: @PRADA普拉达/Weibo

Real-life fashionistas have been catching up with the movement, too. Jeremy Yang is an emerging blogger on Little Red Book, and he is not shy about adding womenswear to his day-to-day fashion. “It is much easier to find well-designed and interesting pieces in womenswear than menswear,” he said. “The cut is better, details are more well-thought-out, and there are just more choices overall.”

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Far from the social stigmas that often associate men wearing womenswear with drag queens, Yang’s intentional purchases of women’s clothes were strictly driven by personal style. “I am drawn to brands that design for the sake of good design,” he added. “Since most brands still put more effort into womenswear nowadays, it is natural for me to look at womenswear for inspiration.”
Jackson Yee attended the 60th Annual Grammy Awards in a Chanel overall from the brand’s spring-summer 2018 womenswear collection. Photo: @TFBOYS-易烊千玺/Weibo

Earlier this year, Little Red Book released its “2021 Lifestyle Trend Keywords” report, which ranked genderless fashion as one of the top 10 themes on the platform. According to the data, views of genderless dressing posts had a 182 per cent increase year-on-year during 2020, while the number of users posting about the theme grew by 83 per cent.

In China, emerging domestic companies like the clothing label Bosie and the beauty brand Hashtag are among those leveraging sales of genderless products to a younger generation that is increasingly rejecting gender binaries. By removing gendered marketing, these labels have created a sense of novelty for a market that has yet to see many androgynous or non-binary offerings.

Beauty brand Hashtag sells gender neutral make-up and skincare products. Photo: @HASHTAG井我/Weibo
For luxury and fashion brands outside China, understanding the large gap between the country’s official stance on gender and youth culture ideals can be tricky. Since 2018, Chinese state media has repeatedly advocated for traditional gender role beliefs by criticising K-pop’s influence for the increasing “feminisation” of its young men. In February this year, China’s education ministry issued a notice that called for schools to promote education that can “cultivate male students’ masculinity”.

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Yet despite this official and aggressive push for conservative values, China’s younger generations continue to find new ways to keep a countermovement alive and burgeoning. Over the past three years, the country’s underground ballroom culture and LGBTQ+ community have continued to grow in tandem with tightened ideological controls in the public sphere.
Bosie frequently releases fashion items which aren’t specific to gender. Photo: @bosie伯喜/Weibo

While leveraging womenswear opportunities remains difficult due to challenges like sizing and marketing campaigns, brands should not dismiss the chance to speak to male Chinese fashionistas through a non-categorical fashion language. More representation of men in androgynous styles, and more products that challenge conventional gender norms, are all ways to connect more deeply with this community. After all, what this generation ultimately wants is the space to experiment and play. And brands that prove they are too cool for traditional social categorisation will gain an edge.

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  • Women may have long embraced ‘boyfriend’ jeans and shirts, but now male stars and Gen Z are integrating fashion-forward women’s designs into their wardrobes
  • ‘Incarnated Chanel’ Wang Yibo, Tiffany & Co. and Armani Beauty’s spokesperson Jackson Yee and Prada’s muse Cai Xukun have all been spotted in womenswear